Dog 101: Crate Training

How to Crate Train your Dog in 3 Steps

Crate training makes housebreaking simpler, and will be the foundation for obedience training that follows. Without crate training it is possible for your pet to develop destructive behaviors such as chewing household objects. By following these 3 steps, your pet will become confident, outgoing, and obedient. Crates represent a den environment which is instinctively comforting to dogs.

Step 1: Buy the crate

Clearly, these two would require slightly different sized crates.

It is important when selecting the crate to purchase the proper size of your fully grown dog. Crates come with dividers that allow you to increase the available space inside of the crate as your puppy grows. You should also purchase the crate well in advance of bringing your puppy or dog home for the first time. Introducing a pet into your home can be chaotic; having a plan simplifies the process. Many people choose metal wire crates. Wire crates offer the most visibility and are the easiest to clean. If you need to clean the crate bottom, the crate pan slides out.

Plastic kennels are also used to crate train dogs. Vari Kennels are the only type of crate approved for airline travel. If you will be travelling via car or plane, consider this type of crate. Vari Kennels best resemble the dens dogs slept in while in the wild.

Tip#1 Send your breeder a small blanket to use with your puppy and its littermates. When you pick up your puppy, use the blanket inside of the crate. Your puppy is less likely to cry at night with the familiar smells of home.

Tip #2 If you buy a wire crate and want to create a better den like structure, you can buy crate covers. These are cloth covers that drape over the crate to darken the inside.

Step 2: Accessorize the crate

A comfortable crate mat can make all the difference!

A plain crate is unappealing for a dog. When shopping for your crate, pick up accessories that will make the crate more comfortable. The first thing you should buy is a crate mat. A crate mat is for dogs, as mattresses are for humans. Crate mats are available in numerous sizes and colors, and are machine washable.

Beyond the crate mat, don’t forget to furnish the crate with toys and chews. No one would enjoy sleeping in an empty room with just a mattress. Your pet can’t have your iPad, but should have plenty of durable toys and chews. The brands Kong and Nylabone both offer toys appropriate for all sizes of dogs, and all levels of chewing.

Step 3 “Kennel Up”

Before your pet ever enters the crate, decide on the command you will use to begin the process. A typical term is “Kennel” or “Kennel Up”. Set up the crate in a common room then allow your pet to investigate. Rather than forcing your pet into the crate, allow your pet’s curiosity to explore the new crate. Strive to develop a positive association with the crate by hiding treats and toys inside.

To begin formal crate training, give the command “kennel” and open the crate door. When your pet enters the crate, treat or praise your pet. Keep your pet inside for only a few seconds at first, then give a release command such as “here”. The universal truth of obedience training is consistency. Always use the same commands or you will confuse your dog.

Once your pet is comfortable in the crate, gradually increase the length of time inside of the crate. Do not expect your pet to withstand 6+ hours inside of the crate. If you work and no one can walk your dog during the day, purchase an Exercise Pen that attaches to the crate. An Ex Pen allows your pet an additional 4’x4’ space to stretch and lie down during the day.

 Last Thoughts

Crates should never be confused with cages.  You should NEVER punish your pet by locking it inside of their crate. You should NEVER force a dog into the crate.  Cages are prisons. Crates mimic dens that dogs naturally seek out and sleep in.

Newdog Whelping Boxes - Available in America Exclusively from Cherrybrook

by Jamie Pyatt


Many dog breeders build a whelping box after the breeding, once a pregnancy has been confirmed. There are many plans on how to build a whelping box available online. Each breeder has their own preference as to which dog whelping box is the “right” one. Not all whelping boxes are created equal. And some have splinters or sharp edges. Yikes!

Even if you have the carpentry skills to build a whelping box from whelping box plans, where will you store it until the next time you whelp puppies? The bulky, heavy whelping boxes are often stored in basements or garages where they may pick up germs and bacteria that will be transferred to the bitch or the puppies. And even if you clean the whelping box thoroughly, unseen microbial germs and bacteria can linger from one whelping to the next. As a responsible dog breeder you have taken great care during every step of this breeding. Why risk your puppies’ exposure to possibly harmful germs?

Newdog unique whelping mats and disposable Whelping Boxes have established an excellent reputation with dog breeders, both in Europe and America. Newdog Whelping boxes are made from strong double walled, environmentally friendly cardboard which has good insulating properties and no harmful chemicals or plastics. They are also hygienic as they are designed to be disposed of after use, which avoids any concerns with cross contamination. The disposable option also avoids the need to store bulky and infrequently used whelping boxes. A waterproofed base card is included in the price to protect the floor of the box. They are also ideal as a secondary box for double whelpings.

Cherrybrook is proud to be the only American supplier of these hygienic, disposable whelping boxes and reusable mats. The Whelping boxes are available in 5 sizes and are shipped flat for easy storage and quick assembly. The sizes are 24” x 24”, 30” x 30”, 40” x 30”, 48” x 36” and 48” x 48”. With so many sizes to choose from most anyone can find the whelping box appropriate for their dog.

A good rule of thumb is for the whelping box to be large enough to allow the dam to comfortably lie fully extended anywhere in the box and keep her litter in front of her. Bigger is not better. A too-large box will allow puppies to become disoriented and lost from their mother.

Now that Newdog has solved the whelping box dilemma, what about the pig rail to keep mom from rolling on her puppies? Newdog Puppy Protector Rails are made from polished aluminum. They are virtually indestructible and cannot absorb bacteria. These aluminum buffer rails need only to be purchased once. They are easily and securely fixed through the box with the bolts supplied.

Newdog manufactures two products for use inside the whelping box. The Newdog whelping mat is designed to be used together with the Newdog absorbent whelping insert.

John and Elaine Snow, owners of Newdog, developed the “Non-Ruck” whelping mat in 2001 after witnessing the behavior of a bitch digging at the bedding during and after whelping. The first users were delighted with it, as the bitch was unable to dig it up and bury her pups underneath. They are a "must have" item for any dog breeder, whether experienced or novice.

The top layer of the whelping mat is made from high quality veterinary fleece, made in England, stitched to a waterproof PVC material. The white fleece is used to show any problems such as unusual discharge or bleeding. On one edge of the whelping mat is a Velcro fastened opening into which a polypropylene stiffener is inserted. The combination of the stitching and stiffener ensures that the mat cannot ruck or bunch up. To wash the Newdog whelping mat simply remove the insert, sponge it down with an anti bacterial agent and place the mat in the washing machine at 40c or 104F. Air dry and reuse many, many times.

The Newdog “Stress Free” whelping mats are available in sizes to fit the Newdog whelping boxes but can be used in any whelping box.

Newdog has developed an absorbent whelping insert that is fully machine washable and is designed to be used in conjunction with the non ruck Whelping Mats.

The Newdog absorbent whelping insert is ideal for when the waters break or when the puppies start to urinate on their own. Simply place the absorbent insert into the whelping mat. After the birth, remove the absorbent pad and replace with a clean one. Follow the same washing instructions as for the whelping mat and reuse. No need to use shredded newspaper with ink made from harmful chemicals and little absorption, or multiple towels that bunch up.Designed to fit inside the whelping Mat, the absorbent insert is available in 24” x 24”, 30” x 30”, 40” x 30”, 48” x 36” and 48” x 48”.

Visit http://www.cherrybrook.com/ to order these unique products, other dog whelping supplies and books on breeding, whelping and genetics.

Things to Look for in a Puppy

You’ve decided to get a puppy! But how do you know which one is right for you? First decide on a particular breed that is suitable to your lifestyle. Once you know the breed of puppy you want, the next step is to find a breeder.

Once you have narrowed your search down to a few breeders with the right credentials, schedule appointments to visit the breeders and their dogs. You want to make sure the grounds are well maintained. Some breeders keep their dogs and puppies in the house, while others may use a separate building. Whether the dogs are inside the house or in a separate kennel area, make sure it is clean and doesn’t smell like urine or feces. The kennel area should be bright, not damp, and be heated and air conditioned. If you are told you can’t see the kennel, leave!

Onto the puppies! The main things to look for in a puppy are personality traits. The pup should be happy and outgoing. Puppies that are hiding in a corner and not playing with littermates tend to be introverted and don’t make good pets. You want to find the puppy that has a lot of energy and is very curious about what is going on. Generally, you want a puppy that acts like a pain in the rear! Of course, these are the first puppies to go, so make sure you observe all the puppies together.

Make sure to look at the puppies faces. There should be no mucus from the nose and the eyes, and the nose shouldn’t be running. Watch how the puppies respond to you. They should cock their heads at different sounds, and should appear interested in who you are.

Once you have looked at all the puppies and seen how they interact with you, your family, and each other, you can make a decision on the one you want. Then you can bring your new puppy home!

Things to Consider Before Purchasing a Puppy

Someone in your family said, “Let’s get a puppy!” Great! Now comes the hard part. You have to decide if you are really ready for a puppy. Sometimes people just don’t understand how big a commitment a puppy can be. The care and commitment are truly like having a child. So here are some things to keep in mind before you begin looking for a breeder.

A lifetime commitment
A giant breed may only live for 7 to 9, or maybe even 11 years. But a toy breed can live as long as 22-24 years!

Grooming
All dogs need to be fed, brushed and walked on a daily basis. Don’t forget about bathing! You may fall in love with that Samoyed but do you really have time to brush everyday and keep that white coat sparkling? Be honest with yourself about the amount of time and effort you can dedicate to grooming.

Time
How much time do you spend away from home? Not just traveling, which presents its own set of challenges, but commuting? Dogs aren’t happy being alone or crated for 12 hours a day. And being home for two days on the weekend can never make up for the time you aren’t with your dog. Dogs are social animals and need to be with their human family.

Check your schedule. Do you travel more? When you’re on the road you can travel with small dogs in cars, and even on planes. A larger breed might fit in the car, but not on an airplane. And some hotels won’t allow large dogs.

Training
Training a dog is as important as food and shelter. Dogs must learn what is expected of them early and often in order to be happy and well adjusted. Training several times per day plus training classes is the minimum commitment for the first year or two.

Children
Do you have kids? Children, especially young ones, aren’t accustomed to real animals. Stuffed animals can fall down the stairs safely, but a puppy cannot. Toys can be dropped, stepped on, or even run over by a bike! A puppy can be seriously hurt, even by a well-meaning child. And just like kids, puppies have soft bones and can be injured easily.

Household
Recently married or newly co-habiting? It can be very hard to bring a puppy into a situation like this. You and your partner are just learning how to live with each other, much less a puppy! Try waiting at least a year, so you can be comfortable in your life, home, and each other before adding a puppy to the mix.

Did you become an empty-nester? Even though you probably have plenty of experience with pets, are you really ready to try again right away? Maybe it’s been a while since you had a dog. You just got your house back to yourself. Are you ready for housebreaking?

Medical concerns
What about allergies? Is anyone in your family allergic? Do you sneeze and get a runny nose when you pet the neighbor’s Labrador? Do your daughter’s eyes itch when she plays with her friend’s Pomeranian? Before thinking about getting a puppy, everyone should be tested for allergic reactions. This can be as easy as spending time with someone else’s pet. But it can save a lot of heartbreak later.

After taking everything into consideration, if you, your partner, your family, and your lifestyle are compatible with a dog, it’s time to find a breeder. Go get your puppy! But if one person isn’t happy or ready, don’t get the dog. It will only cause resentment towards the puppy that will affect not only the dog but the household as well.

Always remember that getting a puppy is a lifetime commitment!

Questions to Ask a Breeder

When searching for a puppy, there are several things you want to ask a prospective breeder before making a purchase. One of the first questions to ask is how he or she came to breed this particular type of dog. What first attracted them to the breed? You may be surprised by the sheer amount of knowledge the breeder has about a particular breed, and how passionate they are about their dogs and puppies.

How long has he or she been breeding, or breeding the particular type of dog you are interested in? Have they shown their dogs? Some breeders don’t actually show their own dogs, but they breed them for others to show. And if the breeder has shown dogs, don’t be surprised if he or she wants to show off the trophies!

How many litters do they typically breed per year? More than one or two planned litters a year may indicate your breeder is breeding for profit.

Most breeders register their dogs with one organization, such as the AKC. Have all the dogs and puppies been registered with the American Kennel Club, or another organization? Be wary of anyone who says their dogs are registered with several different organizations, like the AKC and the UKC. This could mean there have been problems in the past, and they may be prohibited from registering with the AKC.

Ask the breeder if you can see the mature dogs when you visit. Because they are so proud of their dogs, most breeders will invite you to see all of them! If you are refused, walk away. This could mean there is a problem. One of the dogs may be a biter or have a bad temperament, and this could be the parent of the litter you in which you are interested. Not allowing you to see other dogs is not a sign of a good breeder.

Ask about possible health issues and health guarantees. Some breeder’s will warrant their puppies against certain health issues for a certain amount of time. Ask if the puppies’ sire and dam have been OFA (Orthopedic Foundation Association) tested for common diseases of the breed. Take time to research the common health problems of the breed you are interested in and how they are inherited.

Most breeders will have you sign a contract which clearly spells out the purchasing agreement. Ask questions and make sure you understand exactly what you are signing before you sign.

If you find a breeder you are comfortable with and you decide to purchase a puppy, the breeder should give you care instructions. Make sure he or she tells you about proper equipment, feeding and grooming. Also, make sure to ask the breeder about the first night home with your new puppy. Breeds vary in how they respond to separation from parents and littermates, so make sure the breeder explains the best way to care for your puppy in his new home – yours! Don’t be surprised if the breeder cries when you leave.

Breeders are running a business, but a lot of time, care, and love go into that business. Just like any other business they want to know how you heard about them. Be sure to mention to the breeder where you got his or her name, be it a friend or relative, the AKC or its website, another breeder, or Cherrybrook!

How to Prepare Your House for a Puppy

Many people assume that in order to bring a puppy into your home, you must rearrange it. This is not necessary! You really don’t have to start making huge changes to your house. You can have a nice house, own nice things, and still have a dog!

Always remember that training is more important than removing items. In fact, training is the most important responsibility of owning a puppy. A puppy must be trained to respect your home. Setting clear boundaries and limitations from the beginning will make your pet less anxious and enable you to consistently enforce those boundaries. If you use 24 hour supervisory control from the time you bring a puppy into your home, you won’t have as many problems with the puppy chewing, lifting its leg on the furniture or pooping all over the house. Just remember that accidents will happen, and they are easily cleaned!

Make sure you have the proper equipment for training before you bring the puppy home. You should make sure to have a dog crate or vari-kennel for crate training, along with a pad or towel. Always leave the door open so the puppy has a safe place to go. This will also help the puppy get used to being in the crate for transportation purposes. Puppies will often go into alcoves or other small spaces. This is totally normal. The puppies aren’t hiding. They are just looking for a refuge where they can be alone. If there are children in the house, teach them to respect the puppy when it goes to a safe area. It’s down time and they should leave the puppy alone.

Your goal should be to live your normal life, with your puppy. Puppies must be taught that they are yours, not the other way around. If you compromise your lifestyle for a puppy, you will always be resentful and your puppy will never truly learn how to behave in normal everyday situations.

Reputable breeders don’t really advertise, so checking in your local newspaper won’t help in finding one. Most people who advertise puppies for sale in the paper only have one litter, and aren’t true breeders.

So where do you look? The safest and surest way is to go to a local dog show. Ask the exhibitors and owners of the breed you are interested in. Most will be more than willing to tell you who their breeder is. Some of the people you talk to may even be breeders themselves! And if he or she doesn’t have any puppies currently, the breeder will be glad to tell you when the next litter is due, or who else may have some. Check out the Dog Show Calendar at AKC.org for a list of AKC sanctioned events in your area.

Many breeders are also affiliated with rescue groups. Breeders are always ready to help find good homes for dogs that otherwise might not have a chance. This is a great way to adopt an older or unwanted dog who just hasn't found his forever home yet. Every breed has a rescue group somewhere! You can find information about rescue groups on the breed page at AKC.org.

You may want to visit the American Kennel Club website AKC.org to see an updated list of breeders. Just click on the “Find a Breeder” link. These breeders have been screened for their commitment to the breed standards. Information about the National Breed Club can be found here also.

If you are local to the Cherrybrook Store in Broadway, NJ, we have a booklet from the New Jersey Dog Federation which lists preferred breeders for almost every breed! These breeders are certified by the Foundation, which continually updates its list.

Though it should go without saying, NEVER purchase a puppy from a pet store! These puppies are bred in puppy mills with unknowable backgrounds. Oftentimes they are diseased, and have poor temperaments or physical problems. If you want a pure breed dog go to the people who care, the dedicated specialty breeders who have made dogs a lifetime effort.

What to Expect When Expecting a Litter

by Sara Dickey

Like many other dog lovers, I have a passion for dogs. I have five Long Hair Chihuahuas, one Short Hair Chihuahua, and a Shetland Sheepdog.
So here I am blogging about my preparations for a litter. Hopefully I will be able to share the joy of preparing and raising a litter with anyone reading this. Just an FYI, the title can be a little deceiving. In reality, what we expect can be quite different than what actually happens. Preparing for a litter is no exception; but we can certainly take every precaution to plan for a healthy, happy litter by providing our pets with the best care.

You have already done your research and have your “bitch” and “stud”. Needless to say, we all know how many homeless pets there are across the world and we need to make sure we have responsible homes for the fur babies on the way and that we are breeding healthy pets without any hereditary defects or congenital illnesses.

I was a vet tech for over five years and worked in the animal health care industry for over 12 years. Being an animal lover, I absorbed most of my knowledge from hands on training and listening to other breeders who shared their litter experiences with me. Breeding is not for everyone and shouldn’t be. I am sharing this blog for those people who haven’t yet had the joy of delivering a litter.

The first thing I picked up before I decided to breed is the book “The Whelping and Rearing of Puppies” by Muriel P Lee. It was very helpful more than once. No matter how much you know, it is always nice to have a “doggie breeding bible” for reassurance. Hopefully some of the material you read, you will never need to use. For example, if a puppy is born not breathing; never assume the puppy was born dead but perform CPR and other techniques to stimulate the heart. This has only happened to me once, thank the dog lord above for that!

Breeding starts when the dogs “lock” or “tie” together. In most cases this will only happen during a specific time frame of the female heat cycle (it can be from 10-14 days when the red discharge from her vulva turns clear). If you have an unaltered female you know what a nuisance the heat cycle can bring. The pheromones the female secretes during this time are intense for male dogs. Even if you have an altered male, he will still be very persistent and intense trying to mount her, etc. At least mine are. My males are very entertaining to watch as they try to serenade my female to get her attention. From little dances to rollovers around her; they are quite creative and relentless.

I really wasn’t planning on having a litter of puppies this time around. I went to flip laundry in the basement and left the doggies, Cleo and Henry, upstairs with my husband Bill. When I returned my mouth dropped and I said “Honey weren’t you watching them?” My husband looked up from the computer screen and said “what?”. I told him to look down by his feet and he did. He was speechless as the dogs were right beneath him without him even noticing. So, it happens just that fast and don’t think once is not enough.
Even funnier was my 9 year old stepson Trevor entering the room and saying “Ah, Sara, we have a problem. The dogs are stuck together. We have to undo them so they can go to the bathroom. This is not good.”

I explained what was happening in terms a child can understand and that we must not try to “unconnect” them, as it could really hurt the boy dog.

The male gets a great title as a “Stud” .The female takes only the negatively used “Bitch” which I care not to refer to my girl as.

I like to be prepared several weeks prior to Cleo’s due date in terms of materials needed. These are items I like to have. Depending on what breed(s) of dogs you are breeding; what works for me may not necessarily work for other breeds such as Mastiffs or English Bulldogs. Be sure to do ample research on the breeds you are considering to breed as many breeds are prone to difficult births and even difficult mating.

I give Cleo one Pet Tab vitamin a day starting immediately after mating her. In this respect it sort of works like a prenatal vitamin but it can be used everyday on healthy pets for good health maintenance also. Cleo loves Pet Tabs. I think they are liver flavored. Even the best dog foods are deficient in terms of nutrition and this is why it’s especially important to supplement your girl’s diet during pregnancy. I will talk about nutrition in a bit.
Calcium Supplements are controversial. Too much calcium can cause mom to stop producing calcium naturally which can be detrimental to her and her pups. In some cases, some new mommy dogs’ calcium levels drop shortly after delivery. The level drops so low that moms can’t nurse their puppies and also puts mom’s health at risk. Seizures can occur and mom can become very ill and need immediate vet care. The puppies will need to be bottle fed for the duration of the nursing period. I have been giving Cleo one calcium pill a week at this point.

I also supplement Cleo with Wholistic Pet Red Raspberry Leaves the last 4 weeks of pregnancy. Red Raspberry leaves are an organic supplement to support the reproductive system, especially during pregnancy. It works by toning the uterine walls to make birthing easier and at the same time strengthening the pelvic and uterine muscles. I sprinkle it on top of Cleo’s food.
I also like to have Wholistic Pet Colostrum Powder on hand. This is vital to have in the event something happens with mom during delivery. Colostrum is very nourishing and is loaded with all the nutrients necessary to sustain life. It contains essential antibodies to help protect newborns from bacteria, viruses, illness and disease. I recommend the Wholistic Pet Brand supplements for optimal health and nutrition for a broad spectrum of preventative measures. Again, being prepared is vital and can save lives!

Locking Hemostats are a must in the event you have an umbilical cord chewed too short. After a few short minutes of being clamped, most bleeding should stop. In some cases a stitch can be needled in to control the bleeding if the bleeding is aggressive. Some breeders cut the umbilical cords themselves to prevent this, especially if a female has a past tendency to chew and snap the cord too short. This can also lead to umbilical hernias as the pups grow, which will need to be surgically corrected.

Snuggle Safe heat pads are great for many things. I like to towel each pup off after the umbilical cord is detached from the pup. When I am done toweling off the puppy, I place it on a towel-wrapped, warm, snuggle safe while mom is pushing out the next pup. In between contractions I place the pups back with mom to nurse. It is very important they find a nipple and nurse. Newborn puppies can dehydrate very quickly. Newborn puppies cannot maintain their own body temperature the first week or so. It is imperative to keep the litter at a recommended 85 degrees for the first few weeks and away from drafts and air conditioners. If a pup catches a cold or its body temperature drops during this time it can be fatal.

I like to have some type of pre-made puppy milk readily available for the newborns while mom is still in labor. Again, it is important the pups nurse immediately after their arrival. Pups that do not nurse need to be bottle fed. Make sure you have a few pet nursing bottles handy. The milk should be heated up in the microwave the same way you would heat up a baby’s bottle. Do the wrist temperature test.

One way to be able to help better predict when your girl is in labor is by monitoring her body temperature daily. A healthy dogs’ body temperature will be between 100 to 101.5 degrees. Cleo’s normal body temperature is 99-100.5 degrees. It is important to know your girl’s normal body temperature as the first sign of labor is a drop in temperature. Her body temperature will drop down to 96-97 degrees.

Labor can last up to 36 hours. Anything over 36 hours requires a trip to the vet as something maybe wrong. You should be checking her temperature everyday the last week or so of pregnancy. You will also notice your girl’s rear end may start to smell “fishy” or what I like to think of as expressed anal sacs. This is normal and indicates labor is in the near future. One other indication that labor is near is your girls belly. You will notice the shape of her belly will change as her due date approaches. Your girl’s wide stomach will drop lower towards her vulva where the pups will divide into one of the 2 horns in mom’s uterus and line up for delivery.